ALTA, Utah -- ``Push those shopping carts,'' Jackie McDowell urges the group of parka-puffed kids who'd stopped breathlessly, midway down the ski run. The grade-schoolers barely have time to adjust their goggles before pointing their skis down the mountain again. They are intent on steering those imaginary shopping carts straight to the base lodge and some steaming hot chocolate.
``We're trying to teach them to keep their arms up,'' explained McDowell, a veteran children's ski instructor at Alta Ski Lifts and a mom herself.
At the same time, instructors are trying to teach these young skiers something about the trees and animals who called these mountains home long before anyone else got here.
McDowell maneuvered the group of advanced beginners to the side of the hill. They gathered around a tree where a bright ``Ske-Cology'' sign was posted, part of an outdoor education program first developed in Vail, Colo., with the help of the U.S. Forest Service.
True or false, McDowell asked, porcupines shoot their quills at an enemy? False: Porcupines raise their quills for protection, but don't shoot them. Other trails offer fanciful lessons on trees, trout and forest animals.
``Sometimes they're really into it, sometimes they just want to ski,'' McDowell observed.
These kids, who ranged in age from 7 to 11, mostly fell into the latter category, anxious to ski as fast as they could without falling.
They didn't stop to consider the superb snow nor the sheer beauty of the place, the sunshine, the clean air, the craggy mountain peaks studded with fragrant trees smack in the heart of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest. Alta doesn't even have long lift lines: The number of lift tickets sold each day are limited to prevent that.
As does Snowbird, its more glitzy neighbor just a mile up the canyon road, Alta draws skiers from around the world precisely because of the perfect snow -- more than 500 inches a year -- including plenty of deep, fluffy powder and runs so tough they can challenge even the best skiers.
Diehards were on the slopes here in June. They were watching their first snow fall in September. Riding Alta's slow double and triple chairs (no high-speed lifts here!) felt like a giant, pleasant step back in ski time, before crowds and construction transformed most major ski resorts into bustling mini cities. It also felt as if I were a lot further than 25 miles from Salt Lake City.
It's not necessary to be an expert to ski here either: In fact, 65 percent of Alta's runs and 55 percent of Snowbird's are classified for beginners or intermediates.
Even better are the prices. A full-day lift ticket at Alta is $27, less than the price of a child's ticket at nearby Deer Valley. (There are no children's tickets at Alta.)
At Snowbird, two children up to age 12 may ride the chair lifts and ski free with the purchase of a $36 all-day adult ticket. (It costs $9 more for adults or kids to buy an all-day ticket to ride the high-speed tram to the top of the mountain.)
``Just getting the kids away from the television makes it worth it,'' said Nancy Lafin, who had come to Snowbird with her family from Maryland.
``We ski at Alta because they make it affordable,'' added Craig Sax, a Wyoming game warden who was skiing with his three teenagers.
More than the snow and the scenery, perhaps more even than the prices, its the decidedly kid-friendly and eco-friendly atmosphere that attracts increasing numbers of families to Little Cottonwood Canyon. They're certainly not coming for the night life -- not that parents skiing with kids have energy for any -- or to show off their ski duds.
They're coming because they're getting a lot of bang for their vacation buck. Just off Baby Thunder lift, for example, is the Mini-Mining Camp. Let the kids lead you through twists and turns in the woods, through an old mining town patterned after silver mine camps that flourished here in the late 19th century. The kids loved it. I landed in deep powder.
There's Ske-Cology and child care for infants as young as six weeks by state-licensed staff (make reservations three weeks ahead). Ski School starts at age 3.
Teens aren't left out of the loop. There are day-long Teen Super Clinics and evening Radical Recreation programs that might mean playing basketball or getting the scoop on working at a ski area.
The state-licensed children's center at Alta accepts children from three months (and also requests advance reservations). However, ski school at Alta doesn't start until kids are 4. Who said parents can't relax when they take their kids skiing? Those with a substantial budget sure can at the Alta Lodge, a fixture here for decades. For no extra charge, kids are shepherded in the lodge van to and from the ski school. Apres ski, while you relax in the hot tub, counselors entertain the junior skiers and serve them an early dinner. The kids watch a movie while you enjoy a multi-course dinner. (All this, including breakfast and dinner can be yours for an average $450 a night for a family of four. Call 800-707-2582.)
See you on the slopes. Just look for the mom skiing alone while the rest of the family opted to race down the hill.
I'll be smiling.
(Look for Eileen Ogintz's new books from HarperCollins West: ``A Kid's Guide to Vacation Fun in the Rocky Mountains'' and, for parents, ``Are We There Yet?'')
(Send your questions and comments about family travel to Los Angeles Times Syndicate, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles, CA 90053 or e-mail to eogintz@aol.com. While every letter cannot be answered, some of your stories may be used in upcoming columns.)
(c) 1996, Eileen Ogintz. Dist. by Los Angeles Times Syndicate
