No family member will ever be bored in a national park as spectacular as Yellowstone. This important and impressive geothermal region continues to display some of the powerful forces deep within the earth. Old Faithful erupts spraying steam hundreds of feet into the air. But this well-know geyser with a habit of spouting on schedule is just one of many that mark the landscape.
Yellowstone offers much more than geysers. Admire the canyon, hike through forests along trails that lead to waterfalls, take scenic boat trips on the lake, fish for trout, ride horseback in the back country, and just look your car window to see bison, moose and bighorn sheep in their native habitat.
Yellowstone can be "divided" into five different regions-- Geyser Country, full of fumaroles, mud pots, hot pools and home to Old Faithful; Mammoth Country, a thermal area of hot springs; Roosevelt Country, where the park offers stagecoach rides and rugged scenery; Canyon Country, made dramatic by the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone; and Lake Country, where moose and sometimes bear roam the shores of Yellowstone Lake, where the native cutthroat trout is plentiful.
For park dining, camping, lodging and tour information, contact AMFAC, 307-344-7381, www.amfac.com
BEST OF GEYSER COUNTRY
*Old Faithful, named for its regular schedule of eruptions, is the star. Check the chalk boards at the Visitors Center, the local shops, and ice cream parlors for the "expected" time or simply watch the crowd getting thicker.
Although Old Faithful won't disappoint, splashing steamy water 100 to 180 feet into the air, a reminder of earth's primal forces, the area around Old Faithful is disappointing, overbuilt, and overcrowded. With all the parking lots, lodging, eateries, and traffic jams, this bit of the park often seems more reminiscent of a mall than a majestic natural wonder.
*Family Hikes in the Upper Geyser Basin. These easy boardwalk trails wind past forty steamy geysers, and hot bubbling pools. The Geyser Hill Loop, a 1.3 mile track, takes you to Beehive Geyser which can spray more than hundred feet in the air, but alas, not as predictably as Old Faithful, and Doublet Pool, which has a beautiful blue color.
Let your kids use their imaginations to figure out why each geyser was given its particular name. Guess about Turban Geyser, Morning Glory Pool, Mirror Pool, and Sapphire Pool. Listen to the bubbling, watch the grayish white smoke rise, and smell the sulphur (you do become acclimated).
Keep an eye out for Old Faithful which looks even more dramatic when you are not shoulder-to-shoulder with other tourists. Be careful of the bison; some like to sit near the boardwalk. Admire them from afar. However peaceful these animals may look, they are wild, unpredictable, and can be dangerous.
*Midway Geyser Basin, on the road from Old Faithful toward Mammoth Hot Springs, has colorful pools. At the Three Senses Trail blind as well as sighted visitors can focus on the sounds and feel of the geysers and hot springs.
*Fountain Paint Pot is a must. Allow at least one-half hour to walk through this area where the algae and bacteria surrounding these muddy waterholes have turned them to shades of pastel pinks and blues.
Note: At all of the geysers: be careful to stay on the boardwalk. Do not walk on the ground as the crust around these thermal areas can be dangerously thin. Visitors have been burned, and some killed by the scalding water. Also tell your kids ahead of time to resist the urge to throw pennies, sticks, or anything else into the boiling springs. This is not good for them or the thermal attractions. Hold little ones by the hand, or put them in the stroller as the boardwalk makes for a perfect pathway.
BEST OF MAMMOTH COUNTRY
Near the northern border of Yellowstone and just minutes away from Gardiner, Montana, is Mammoth Hot Springs, where even in high season, the crowds thin out a bit. We prefer staying here for its rustic, but serviceable lodging and because this area is less crowded than some others. Look at the films and photographs of the park at the Albright Visitor Center, (307- 344-7381, ext. 357).
* Mammoth Hot Springs. As the acidic waters of Mammoth Hot Springs pass through the limestone calcium carbonate remains, eventually causing these unusual shaped terraces. Walk around these colorful formations. The springs continue to grow, now covering an entire hillside.
*Beaver Ponds Trail is an interesting hike, but not for beginners. The trail puts you to the test, gaining 500' in elevation.
*Horseback Riding. Try an early morning ride when the animals may be more active. With luck as you ride through the sagebrush, and aspen groves, you may come upon a herd of elk. Even a brief foray off-the-road does much to enliven your sense of Yellowstone's wonders.
BEST OF ROOSEVELT COUNTRY
Roosevelt Country drew the first tourists to Yellowstone as this area had lodging facilities. Less dramatic than the geyser or canyon areas, Roosevelt Country has the simple serenity and peaceful good looks of forests, meadows, streams and lakes, and marshes.
*Tower Fall trail. This rewarding and not too difficult half-mile hike leads to Tower Fall, a waterfall that cascades 132 feet. Deer often rest on the rocks at the river bottom, where the tumbling waters create a thunderous display.
*Horseback Riding and Stagecoach Rides. Horseback and stagecoach rides can be arranged through the Roosevelt Lodge. Minimum age for riding is generally eight. Younger kids can sample a pioneer journey in a scenic but short jaunt in a replica of a Concord stagecoach. These depart June through August.
*Lamar Valley and Lamar River. If you continue from the center of Roosevelt Country towards the northeast entrance of the park, you'll see the Lamar Valley and Lamar River, known for its good viewing of bison, elk and mule deer. Small ponds for fishing are nearby.
BEST OF CANYON COUNTRY
Don't miss Canyon Country; many think of this as Yellowstone's most dramatic feature. The canyon, 20 miles long, stretches 4,000 feet across. The canyon walls have dramatic striations of pink, yellow and orange. Two waterfalls, the Lower Falls and the Upper Falls, casca.de into the misty canyon. Bypass Canyon Village, a touristy spot, but check out the Canyon Visitor Center, (307) 344-7381, ext. 6205, which has maps.
* Scenic Overlooks. Both Inspiration Point and Grandview Point afford spectacular canyon views. Along the South Rim stop at Upper Falls Overlook, which is handicapped accessible
*Hikes. The Clear Lake Trail. This moderate hike goes through large rolling meadows and forested areas to Clear Lake. Just a few miles south of the canyon lies the Hayden Valley, an expanse of wild grass and sage that attracts elk, bison, and bears. Be careful as you are in bear country.
BEST OF LAKE COUNTRY
More than one hundred miles of shoreline surrounded by tree covered mountains and blue skies make Yellowstone Lake not only North America's largest mountain lake, but another park highlight. Look for Canada geese, and trumpeter swans.
*Fishing. At the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center, (307) 344-7381, ext. 6150, find out about fishing areas and permits.
*Elephant Back Mountain Trail. It's four miles to a panoramic view of the lake and into Pelican Valley.
*Lake Yellowstone Hotel. At this hotel from June to September you can sign-up for a one-hour narrated, scenic cruise. Watch for bear and moose that graze along the shoreline and bald eagles as they swoop down to catch trout
*Sunset Views. Steamboat and Lake Butte are excellent spots for views of Lake Yellowstone and are prime locations for a sunset picnic and photos for the scrapbook.
Note: Beyond these five areas lie the backcountry. A permit is required if you plan to trek through this area, and you will have to inform the various ranger stations of your exact plans. The wilderness can be beautiful, but precautions should always be taken. Ask the rangers for information about campsites, trails, hiking guides, and bears.
BEST PLACES TO STAY
The park offers a range of accommodations in several locations for a variety of budgets.
The new Old Faithful Snow Lodge, an $18 million project, was completed in spring 1999. Located near Old Faithful, the lodge is one of only two properties open year-round. Reminiscent of the large National Park lodges built in the 1920s, the property has a two-story lobby fireplace, and an exterior log columns. The facility has 100 guest rooms, a snack bar and a restaurant. Because of its location near Old Faithful, you will be in the heart of the tourist hordes.
The Old Faithful Inn, open early May through early October, is a National Historic Landmark and is situated in front of Old Faithful. This stately log hotel has a dining room and lounge. In summer you will be surrounded by crowds.
Lake Yellowstone Hotel and Cabins, open mid-May through September, is a nice place to stay away from Old Faithful's crowds. The hotel has relatively new suites and rooms are less expensive in the annex.
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, open most of the year, offers hotel rooms and cottage-style, simple cabins, some with full bath and some without. This area is less crowded than the Old Faithful hub, a restaurant is nearby, and you're likely to see the most wildlife on the road from the Old Faithful area to Mammoth Hot Springs.
--Candyce H. Stapen, is the author of Great Family Vacations Mid-West & Rocky Mountain Region, Second Edition (Globe Pequot Press).
