CRUISES: BEST PICKS IN PORT FOR FAMILIES
HAWAII
Hawaii is a wonderful cruise destination and a cruise is a wonderful way to see Hawaii, especially for first-time visitors. Each of the Hawaiian islands has their own allure. On a cruise you can sample three or four islands, enjoying the highlights, without having to spend time waiting at inter-island airports for flights to your next locale.
The cruise line that sails to Hawaii most frequently is American Hawaii, offering week-long voyages to the islands year-round. The ship docks on Oahu, the Big Island, Kauai and Maui. Other cruise lines offer occasional voyages to Hawaii.
-Candyce H. Stapen,, author
Cruise Vacations With Kid, 2nd edition (Prima Publishing) available mid-May
CRUISE PICKS: THE BIG ISLAND
No tour of Hawaii is complete without a visit to the island of Hawaii, known also as the Big Island. The nickname derives from the simple fact that this is the largest of Hawaii's islands, with 4,038 square miles. This is the Hawaii of legendary volcanoes and landscapes of lava-striped earth. Kilauea, one of the island's volcanoes, is still active, sending hot lava streaming across roadsides. Tours can take you to see the red lava flows. On this island, you'll also enjoy good snorkeling, lush gardens, and languid waterfalls. -Candyce H. Stapen
BIG ISLAND: BEACHES and SEA LIFE Beach: A favorite beach for tourists in Kona is Magic Sands Beach (or Disappearing White Sands Beach), named for the winter storms that periodically wash away the sand and expose the rocky beach only to deposit more sand later. The beach is known for boogie boarding, but the surf is feisty, making it intimidating for small children and new swimmers.
Divers' View Without Diving: The Atlantis Submarine plunges into the ocean off Kona. Children should be at least thirty-six inches tall and unafraid of tight quarters, but the diver's-eye-view of coral and schools of fish is great. Reserve ahead at the Atlantis Submarine's desk at 75-5669 Alii Drive, (808) 322-8881 or (800) 548-6262.
-Candyce H. Stapen
BIG ISLAND: NATURE and the ENVIRONMENT
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (808) 967-7311: Don't miss this national park located about forty-five minutes southwest of Hilo. The Visitor's center provides a brochure, "Road Guide to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park," and the self-guided tour is easy to follow with clear explanations and mile markers.
If you have the time, follow Crater Rim Drive, which makes an eleven-mile circuit around Kilauea caldera. Children are impressed with the steaming sulfur banks and Kilauea Iki Crater, a crusted lava lake three thousand feet wide. Get out of the car and walk through the Thurston Lava Tube, a 0.3-mile-long tunnel formed by cooled lava flow.
Akaka Falls State Park (Akaka Falls Road, Route 220, 808-933-4200, the general number for all state parks): This state park is about 13.5 miles north of Hilo on Route 19, then five miles west on Akaka Falls Road. The park offers hikes to two waterfalls-Akaka Falls and Kahuna Falls. A circular forty-minute path through ferns, bamboo, and other greenery leads you to Kahuna Falls, which tumbles and crashes one hundred feet below, and to Akaka Falls, which plunges even farther to more than four hundred feet.
Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens (808) 964-5233: While in Hilo, you'll want to visit this nature preserve and sanctuary featuring more than twenty acres of gardens. Walk through areas with orchids, plumeria, birds of paradise, and other colorful flowers as well as landscaped settings with bridges, lily ponds and streams. The garden is located at Onomea Bay, about seven miles north of Hilo on RR 143-A, Papaikou, HI.
Hawaii Forest and Trail (808) 329-1993. This outfitter leads six- to eight-person hikes into private, remote lands. Trails vary from easy to difficult. Rob Pacheco's emphasis is the environment and local history. Tours also go to the Pu'U'O Ranch Rain Forest, the Hualalai Volcano, the Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Children under three go free.
-Candyce H. Stapen
BIG ISLAND: Historic Attractions and Museums
Pu'uhonua o Honaunau, formerly called the City of Refuge National Historical Park, off Route 160 about nineteen miles south of Kailua-Kon, was a sanctuary established in the fifteenth century as a refuge for those who broke religious taboos. Children like perusing the carved totem poles, seeing the koa wood canoes, and learning about ancient Hawaii.
The Historic Parker Ranch on Mamalahoa Highway is the site of the Parker family's 1800s ranch house and museum-like home. Here the exhibits are about Hawaiian-style cowboys (808) 885-7655.
The thirteen-hundred-acre Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, (808) 329-6881, contains more than two hundred historical artifacts, including Hawaiian grave sites, fishing shrines, and petroglyphs. The park is a short drive east of Kona.
-Candyce H. Stapen
KAUAI
Less developed than Maui and more lushly green, Kauai presents the languid and less-populated Hawaii of long ago. On the sands and hiking trails, you're likely to enjoy more space as there are fewer crowds on Kauai than on Maui.
Beaches:Kalalau State Park is a good bet. Conde Naste Traveler magazine has rated this as one of the best American beaches with the most beautiful surrounding wilderness.
The drive from Lihue to the popular Poipu Beach area is about fourteen miles, a thirty-minute drive. Bring along a picnic lunch because this beach has a wide grassy area and picnic tables.
Surfing: Take a surfing lesson in the world-famous surf spot of Hanalei Bay on the south shore. A seven-time world champion surfer, Margo Oberg has her own surfing school outside of the Kiahuna Plantation Resort. Call Margo Oberg Surfing School (2253 Poipu Road, Koloa, HI 96756, 808-742-6411) for lessons or equipment rental.
-Candyce H. Stapen
KAUAI: Nature and the Environment
Waimea Canyon State Park: If your time is limited, head straight to Waimea Canyon State Park, which is often called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. The entrance is about thirty-six miles, one hour and fifteen minutes from Lihue. On your way to the Waimea Canyon Lookout, at thirty-four hundred feet, pick out some easy hikes. Brochures are available at the visitor center.
A popular tour is a helicopter flight over Waimea Canyon and along the Na Pali Coast. Fly by waterfalls, over ancient caves, and over cliffs. The adventure is both memorable and expensive. Make sure you go with a reputable company. It may be easier and more reliable to book this tour through your ship's tour desk than on your own.
Snorkeling: Snorkeling is a popular activity in Kauai because of the island's diverse coastal reef formations. Some great beaches for snorkeling are Makua Beach, or Tunnels Beach, on the north shore (also good for advanced windsurfing), and Koloa Landing and Prince Kuhio Park on the south shore. Be sure to check with the locals-some areas may be appropriate for strong swimmers only and inappropriate for children.
Hiking: Hike part of the Kalalau Trail, the land route that stretches for eleven miles one way across the Na Pali cliffs, once home to ancient Hawaiian kings. The trails, part of the Na Pali Coast State Park can be adventurous (read "difficult"). The first half mile, scenic and uphill, is reasonably do-able.
Gardens: If your family loves gardens, write ahead for tickets to the National Tropical Botanical Garden, P.O. Box 340, Lawaii, HI 96765, or call (808) 332-7361. A van takes you for a look-and-see tour of the 186 lush acres of the Limahuli Valley. You will stop to smell the orchids, admire ferns and flowers, and learn about plumeria, monkey pod trees, and banana plants.
-Candyce H. Stapen
KAUAI:Historic Attractions and Museums
Kauai is so lush, you're going to want to be outdoors. But for a change of pace or a rainy day activity, stop by the Kauai Museum at 4428 Rice St., Lihue, (808) 245-6931. This small museum has examples of such Hawaiian hand-crafted items as koa wood tables and calabashes, ipu (drums made from gourds), decorated tapas (cloth), and a bamboo ohe hano ihui (nose flute). -Candyce H. Stapen
CRUISE PICKS IN PORT: MAUI
Your children will never be bored on Maui. Teens savor the snorkeling and the chance to bike ride down the side of a volcano. Magical Maui moments include bike riding down mountain slopes, snorkeling at a semi-submerged volcanic cone, and driving a scenic highway dotted with waterfalls.
MAUI:BEACHES This is an island with miles and miles of beaches-a mild surf that is great for swimming and watersports.
Swimming: Wailea has nice beaches along a strip of popular hotels and condominiums.
For Teens: If you are traveling with a teen who is looking for some excitement, take the family to Dig Me Beach in Kaanapali where many young people gather. The windsurfing lessons are good here.
Windsurfing: Mokuleia Beach is a good place to watch expert surfing. (Don't even think about trying to put a board in the water here. The locals call this place "the slaughterhouse.")
-Candyce H. Stapen
MAUI: Snorkeling: Favorite beaches for snorkeling include Honolua Bay, a Marine Life Conservation District, and Kapalua Bay.
Molikini, a half-submerged volcanic crater about an hour's launch from Maalaea Harbor offers great snorkeling. Children will be wowed by the schools of rainbow-colored fish that are so tame they practically eat from your hand. This is a good trip to take through your ship's shore tour office.
Submarine Dive: Atlantis Submarines dive off Maui. Through the portholes of this recreational sub, you see schools of rainbow colored fish, lazy sea turtles and coral. This is a great trip for non-snorkelers and divers. For all 2 p.m. dives, the purchase of one full-fare ticket gets you one free admission ticket for a child twelve or under. Minimum height for a passenger is three feet.
-Candyce H. Stapen
MAUI: Nature and the Environment
Haleakala National Park (808-572-9306): In Hawaiian Haleakala means house of the sun, aptly named as this mountain looms formidably at 10,000'. A favorite activity is to get to the peak in time to watch the sunrise. Your kids may not want to get up at 4 a.m. to begin the two-hour drive up; on the other hand, your teens may not have yet gone to bed. But even if you arrive after dawn (allow about 2 hours for the drive up), the trip is worth the trouble. The scenery changes from sugar fields, to farms, ranches, eucalyptus groves, koa trees, and near the summit, to an eerie stretch of craters, and black earth.
Bring jackets. Even if it's seventy degrees at the bottom, it's much colder at the summit. Stop at the Visitors' Center for books and brochures. Your children ages five to twelve can become Junior Rangers. Usually, they need to participate in (and complete) some activities. The program takes about two hours and is a fun way for children to learn about the delicate ecosystem of the mountain. The Junior Ranger patch makes a special Hawaiian souvenir.
Biking on Haleakala: A popular Haleakala adventure is a bicycle tour down this mountain. The trip, from the van ride up, to the bike ride down with a stop for lunch, can take 4 hours. It's best to go in the morning before the mist obscures some views. Because the mountain features 29 hairpin turns, this exhilarating outing is recommended only for agile parents and children 12 and over who follow directions. The precipice of a mountain is no-place for daredevil kids. Some reputable companies include Maui Downhill, 199 Dairy Road, Kahului; (808) 871-2155; and Cruiser Bob's Downhill, P.O.Box B, Paia; (808) 579-8444.
Horseback Riding on Haleakala: On Haleakala's slopes be a paniolo, a Hawaiian cowboy. Sign-up for a horseback ride with Pony Express, Post Office Box 535, Kula, Maui; (808) 667-2200. Located at about 4200', this "up-country" ranch offers 2-hour guided rides (minimum age is ten). While the horses keep an easy walking pace, you enjoy the sweeping vistas of sugar cane fields far down the slopes that reach to the blue Pacific. The rustle of the horses hooves in the calf-high reedy grass creates a tranquil aura. For those who can sit in the saddle for 7 hours, Pony Express offers horseback trips into the crater, an exciting venture. Thompson Ranch, Thompson Road, Kula, (808) 878-1910, also offers ranch trail rides as well as trips into Haleakala's crater.
-Candyce H. Stapen
MAUI: Historic Attractions and Museums
Young children especially like the Lahaina-Kaanapali & Pacific Railroad (or the Sugar Cane Train), a replica of the 1890 Hawaiian railroad, (808) 661-0089. On this trip, a singing conductor intones information about the mountains and history of Maui's west shore.
Maui Ocean Center: The island's newest attraction, Maui Ocean Center, at 192 Marsquoalaea Road (808) 270-7000), is an aquarium and marine park dedicated to indigenous Hawaiian marine life. An acrylic tunnel passes through the park's 750,000-gallon tank and provides visitors with a 240 degree view of the nearly 2,000 sea creatures swimming around.
-Candyce H. Stapen
OAHU:
Oahu will surprise you. The most populated of Hawaii's islands, Oahu is the third largest of the Hawaiian chain. On Oahu, the scene changes from the bustle of Waikiki's blanket to blanket bodies to the sweeping curls of sunlit waves on the north shore beaches that made surfing into a world-class sport. As the name suggests, Oahu, the gathering place, pulls together a sampler of Hawaii from the legends of old Polynesia, the lushness of botanical gardens, to the modern skyline of Honolulu.
-Candyce H. Stapen,author
Cruise Vacations With Kid, 2nd edition (Prima Publishing) available mid-May
OAHU: Beaches
The best beaches for families are on the south shore. But be careful because summer brings a strong, high surf. The south shore's beach park Ala Moana has the best public facilities as well as a reef to snorkel. Also on the south shore is Waikiki. Waikiki's sands are famous and very crowded, but the waves are relatively gentle. Arrive early if you want to pick your spot.
Another popular spot, Kailua Beach, is located on Oahu's east coast. The waters here are good for experienced windsurfers. Also, Fort DeRussy, a large land area owned by the U.S. Army, is a rest and relaxation area for men and women of the military and their families. The beach is broad and the water pleasant for swimming.
-Candyce H. Stapen
OAHU: Hikes
Diamond Head State Monument,(808) 587-0300: Diamond Head State Monument, off Diamond Head Road between Makapuu and 18th avenues; (808) 587-0300, is probably Oahu's most noted landmark. Allow two hours for the roundtrip hike to the 760' summit of Diamond Head, a volcanic crater that curves close to the Waikiki's shoreline. Bring flashlights (a nice touch for little kids) to assist you through the darker tunnels. The wind in the grass, and the quiet let you imagine this landmark as King Kamehameha saw it when he worshipped at a heiau, an ancient Hawaiian temple, on Diamond Head's slopes. Diamond Head is probably Oahu's most noted landmark. Bring a flashlight and hike to the 760-foot summit. The round-trip takes about two hours.
The Honouliuli Preserve, on the summit of Oahu's Waianae Range, shelters many of Hawaii's disappearing flora and fauna. Outdoor-minded families with older children might like the rugged trails and lush scenery. Those under twelve are not allowed. The Nature Conservancy Hike, (808) 537-4508, also offers guided day hikes. Call for a schedule. These hikes allow you to see rare plants that grow nowhere else in the world as well as such critters as the Hawaiian owl. Another company that hosts hikes for adults and children is the Hawaii Nature Center Hike in upper Makiki Valley, (808) 955-0100.
-Candyce H. Stapen
OAHU: Outdoor Play Spaces
Kapiolani Park: Stroll through Kapiolani Park, located between Waikiki's beach and Diamond Head, at the end of Kalakaua Avenue. Locals relax here, especially on Sunday. The park is a 140 acre expanse of lawns, picnic and play areas. Pack a ball, and a kite, and soon you and your kids will be sharing a game of catch and a breeze with a local keiki (child).
Waimea Valley Adventure Park, (800) 548-6262: It's worth a drive to Oahu's north shore to visit Waimea Valley Adventure Park. The 1800 acre park about 40 miles from Waikiki has lush Hawaiian vegetation. lessons in island lore and adventure outings. Stroll through gardens of red and purple bougainvillea, hibiscus, past cluster s of ginger plants to the waterfall where cliff divers announced by the call of a conch shell, tumble effortlessly from as high as 60-feet.
Walk through the Butterfly Encounter and some of the more than 500 brightly colored butterflies might land on you. At Jungle Trek climb a giant treehouse and navigate a maze. Other adventures include outings in all-terrain vehicles, mountain biking trails, horseback riding, and kayaking. Guests can even camp overnight in the secnic park, a nice way to extend your Oahu stay.
Pineapple Garden Maze,(808) 621-8408: En route to the North, stop at the Pineapple Garden Maze, Dole Pineapple Plantation, Wahiawa in Central Oahu. Recognized by Guinness Book of World Records as the world's largest the maze, the attraction, created from plants including hibiscus, heliconia and plumeria, is laid out as a huge pineapple. Kids can try to beat the five fastest times through all the twists and turns and find the maze's six secret stations. There's also a Giant Vegetable Garden, harboring some of the world's biggest vegetables. Depending upon the season and the success of the seeds, you might see a cabbage or a pumpkin that could feed twenty.
-Candyce H. Stapen
OAHU: Sea Life
Waikiki Aquarium: At this recently renovated facility introduce your children, especially those too young for snorkeling, to Hawaii's underwater wonders. Rare monk seals sun and swim here. Kids look wide-eyed at such strangely striped, spotted and rainbow hued Hawaiian reef dwellers as lion, butterfly, and squirrel fish, as well as lazy, green sea turtles, and yellow-hued coral that sprouts like wildflowers. The gift shop which offers many allowance-affordables, including fish magnets, stickers, pencils, and puzzles.
Honolulu Zoo (808) 971-7171: Mari and Vaigai, two Asian pachyderms, steal the show at the Honolulu Zoo. During Elephant Encounters, these tame behemoths bow, sit, carry handlers in their trunks, and place leis on giggling children. Check the zoo schedule.
Take time to climb the giant banyan tree, a fantastical conglomeration of limbs just outside the zoo's entrance, and bring some bread for the flocks of white pigeons that seem to float like angels above the grassy lawn.
Sea Life Park (808) 259-7933: About a twenty-minute drive from Waikiki, Sea Life Park at Makapuu Point in Waimanalo,, combines science and showmanship. Learn about Humboldt penguins, whales and dolphins and even a "wholphin," the world's only offspring of a dolphin and whale. Find out about frigate birds, boobies and other endangered species, and watch the green sea turtles take a lazy swim at the turtle lagoon.
Dive in a Submarine: Go fathoms deep in the Atlantis Submarine, (800) 973-9811. Keep dry while you get a diver's-eye-view of the deep. Passengers must be at least three feet tall.
Multi-sport--Horseback riding, Mountain Biking, Swimming Kualoa Ranch (808) 237-8515.: This property is a 145-year-old, four-thousand-acre ranch that is not only beautiful but offers several outdoor activities, Guided horseback rides (walking only, no trotting) follow paths that wind through lush green valleys. Mountain biking/hiking tours lead to lookouts of Kaneohe Bay, and swimming on Kualoa's private island provides uncrowded beaches and great views of the fluted Kualoa mountains.
-Candyce H. Stapen
OAHU: Historic Attractions and Museums
U.S.S. Arizona Memorial (808) 422-2771: The most famous metropolitan Honolulu must-see is the U.S.S. Arizona Memorial, Pearl Harbor Naval Base, Pearl City; Arrive before 9:00 a.m.( the visitor center opens around 8:00 a.m.) to be sure to obtain a free ticket to the floating memorial that marks the spot of the sunken Arizona, the grave of 1,177 sailors who died in the surprise Japanese attack. Each person must pick up his or her own ticket--this prevents tour groups from totally booking the monument.
While you wait for your timed entrance, browse the small museum, which personalizes the war by presenting some of the "ordinary" heroes, and fighters. The gift shop offers a wide selection of books for all age levels. Particularly interesting is Pearl Harbor, A Child's View of Pearl Harbor From Attack to Peace (Kansas City, MO: Woodson House Publishers, 1993). Written by Dorinda Makana Onalini Nicholson, who was a child during the attack, this book presents the war from her view point including trying to escape the bombs, and searching for her dog who was left behind in the initial hurry to flee.
Before heading out by boat to the floating memorial, you see a film explaining the basics of the surprise attack on the U.S. fleet, and the devastations the Japanese inflicted. From the memorial itself you can see part of the rusty hull of the ship below. Depending on your child, this may or may not have an impact.
Submarine Memorial Park, (808) 423-1341: Adjacent to the Arizona Memorial Visitor Center, is the Submarine Memorial Park. The highlight is the USS Bowfin, a WW II submarine. Kids 6 and older can squeeze along its narrow passageways for a below decks look at life alongside big torpedo tubes. At the museum learn about submarine design, and view a Japanese submarine torpedo--manned by one person, bound for glory and suicide.
The Bishop Museum (808) 847-3511: This facility offers extensive exhibits on the islands' natural history and cultural heritage. Make a game of searching for treasures amid the somewhat static displays, many of which may bore this generation of high-tech video kids. Children especially like finding the vivid yellow and orange feather capes and other the items belonging to Hawaiian royalty, the Polynesian masks and the native carvings.
Children's Discovery Center (808) 592-KIDS: Younger kids might want to visit this new 37,000-square foot facility located near the Kakaaka waterfront, between the Aloha Tower and the Ala Moana Center. At Fantastic You, kids find out about their bones by riding a bike with a skeleton and find out about teeth at the Big Mouth Theater. The kid-sized Your Town has a firemen's pole, a post office and a police station. At Hawaiian Rainbows, kids can "tour" the surrounding islands via video, load cargo on a container ship and play in a planatation house.
Polynesian Cultural Center (808) 293-3333; (800)367-7060. This 42-acre living history park is fun. The costumed interpreters in the recreated villages of Samoa, New Zealand, Tahiti, Fiji, Old Hawaii, the Marquesas and Tonga present facts with quick vaudeville pacing. As you learn how to play the nose flute, twirl poi balls, weave baskets, carve tikis and blow conch shells, these interpreters crack jokes and deliver deadpan looks. The center also has luaus, an elaborate evening review, and an IMAX theater.
-Candyce H. Stapen
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