BEST PICKS IN PORT: ST. THOMAS AND ST. JOHN
As the Caribbean's number one cruise ship destination, St. Thomas (thirty-two square miles in size) has much to offer families. Beautiful beaches with gentle, warm waters, sand perfect for building castles, and a reef system that offers good snorkeling are some of the reasons for the island's popularity. And don't forget the deals on shopping. That's why Charlotte Amalie, a main shopping area, is so crowded when cruise ships call. For many, the crowds in Charlotte Amalie are too reminiscent of home, especially during the pre-Christmas rush. If you'd rather avoid the crowds, forget downtown and head for the beaches or the less-populated neighboring island, St. John.
BEACHES
All beaches in the U.S. Virgin Islands are public, although sometimes you have to gain access by walking through a resort.
St. Thomas' heart-shaped mile-long Magens Bay is considered by National Geographic as one of the three most beautiful beaches in the world. This splendid white sand beach has gradual water access, making it great for children. There are lifeguards, changing rooms, rest rooms, snorkeling equipment rentals, and eateries. Palm trees provide shade from the Caribbean sun. An entry fee is charged and you can rent paddle boats, windsurfers, and small sailboats. When the cruise ships come in, there will also be crowds.
The beautiful Sapphire Beach, one of the island's best, is splendid for swimming and also for snorkeling, with a large reef teaming with colorful fish. Go to the far end of the beach that fronts the resort to take the plunge (the beach is open to the public, and you'll find equipment rentals at Dive In, 775-6100, ext. 2144). Watch out for rocks and shells in the sand when you're entering the water.
SNORKELING
With its clear, warm waters, the U.S.V.I. sports some of the best snorkeling spots in the Caribbean and an incredible diversity of marine life. The island's best diving and snorkeling can be had at Cow and Calf Rocks, located off the southeast end about forty-five minutes by boat from Charlotte Amalie. A coral tunnel network boasts reefs, dramatic caves, archways, and cliff overhangs. Look for nurse sharks, horse-eye jacks, and glassy sweepers.
A number of cruise lines offer catamaran tours from Charlotte Amalie Harbor to St. John (you can also arrange one yourself at the pier or take a ferry).
St. John's well-known Trunk Bay is still a good spot-despite the fact that fish numbers have decreased and some coral has been lost-especially for young snorkelers new to the sport. Underwater plaques identify coral species and a 225-yard marked snorkeling trail is easy to follow. Families will be glad to find lockers, changing rooms, and a snack bar. Bring your own equipment or rent snorkels, masks, and fins for a small fee. A credit card is needed to ensure a refundable deposit.
Another feature at Trunk Bay is Snuba, a shallow-water dive system requiring no certification and no heavy, restrictive gear or time-consuming training. Your air source is contained in a flotation raft that follows you while you explore underwater. A fifteen-minute beach orientation is followed by a forty-five-minute dive in fifteen to twenty feet of water directly off the beach. (Age and health restrictions may apply; call 693-8063 for more information if you're arranging this on your own.)
Not far from Trunk Bay is Cinnamon Bay, a lovely, small beach with changing rooms, showers, and a good outlying coral reef where a number of species can be observed by snorkelers.
On the north shore near Coral World, Coki Beach is a popular (and often crowded) spot for snorkeling thanks to the abundance of reef fish. Rentals and instruction are available. Coki Beach Dive Club specializes in beginning scuba diver instruction (340-775-4220).
NATURE AND THE ENVIRONMENT
Coral World Marine Park and Underwater Observatory: A trip to Coral World (775-1555) is a great way for a family to spend the day. Containing one of the largest underwater observatories in the world, Coral World offers a fascinating 360-degree view of sharks, eels, and other ocean coral life twenty feet under the sea. There's an eighty-thousand-gallon aquarium, the largest natural reef exhibit in the world, and also a marine garden aquarium, touch pools, a predator tank, and tropical birds. You'll find restaurants, shops, lockers, and showers for the adjacent Coki Beach. Be ready for crowds because Coral World is popular.
From Coral World, you can take the Coral Explorer semi-submarine to peruse the waters surrounding Turtle Rock. The vessel was developed in Australia for use on the Great Barrier Reef. Instead of submerging, you descend into the hull and sit five feet below the surface of the water to explore the sea life through large windows. You also get to watch divers feed hundreds of fish right in front of the vessel's windows.
Atlantis Submarine: For a dry view of the wonders beneath the sea, the Atlantis Submarine takes passengers on a one-hour voyage descending to depths of ninety feet. Guides identify marine life, and divers swim with the fish. The tour leaves from Havensight Mall. (See Barbados listing above for more details about Atlantis tours.) Call (800) 253-0493 or, for local information, 776-5650.
HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS AND MUSEUMS
Many of the island's historical attractions are in town within walking distance of each other and the piers. Fort Christian, built in the 1660s, was the center of the first Danish settlement and is the oldest standing structure on St. Thomas. Amazingly, it withstood the fires and hurricanes that devastated much of the town in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Call 776-4566 for information.
If you and your older children have the energy, walk up Ninety-nine Steps (actually, there are slightly more if you count them) leading from Government Hill to Lille Tarne Gade, for a great photo opportunity and view. When you reach the top, go right to Blackbeard's Castle, one of the oldest structures on the island. Pirates are said to have roamed in the area of this five-story watchtower that was built in 1679 and now houses a hotel and restaurant.
-Candyce H. Stapen
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